| General
Questions |
|
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| What choices / options are
available in alternative energy? |
There is actually a rather
large and diverse assortment of alternative energy products each
with various options for one to consider. Each also has it's
individual pro's and con's, price points, energy production and
savings. Plus, what will work for one location may not work
in another, even if the installations are next door to each
other. However, without going into too great a detail, here
are the general product choices:
Wind Power; either a vertical wind turbine (VAWT) or horizontal
wind turbine (HAWT) mounted on a pole, tower, building, or other
structure. Some wind turbines are used to pump water, but
for purposes of this site, the models we are discussing are used
for generating DC or AC electricity. Either they will have an
inverter built-in or an inverter will be needed to produce AC
electricity. (Inverters convert electricity from DC to AC).
Solar PV; photovoltaic solar modules mounted on a roof, ground
rack, pole mount or roof rack that produce DC electricity that is
converted (using an inverter) into AC current.
Solar Hot Water; a solar water heating system that contains a
liquid that is heated by the sun, pumped to a storage tank where
the pipes containing the hot liquid heats your tap water, then
circulates back to the solar panels to be re-heated. This
system can be used solely for normal hot water use or for hot
water and heating purposes if you already have a boiler
system. It produces no electricity and in fact uses a small
amount for the pump. Most electric hot water heaters consume
$360 to $480 per year ($30 to $40 per month) in electricity
depending on the size of the heater, the heat setting, and your
water usage. The idea with this product is to reduce or
eliminate that energy consumption.
Micro-Hydro; basically a water turbine turned by falling
water. The most efficient means to create electricity but
the most unlikely to be available to the normal household or
business.
All three... Wind, Solar PV and Hydro electricity can be used
in grid-tie, off grid, and battery backed-up systems (more on
these later).
|
|
| Do I have to re-wire my
house (or business) and purchase all new DC appliances?
|
No. Two or three
decades ago your only option was pretty much to live off the
grid. You needed batteries to store the power you produced, and then
you either had all DC appliances (and thus DC wiring) or you used
an inefficient inverter to convert the DC to AC power. 4
days of cloudy weather and you ran out of power. Times have
changed, dramatically. Inverters today are much more
efficient. Power companies in most states are required to
allow what's called net metering (where you send your excess juice
to the grid turning your meter backwards). In a grid-tie
system with net metering you do not even need batteries.
Your alternate energy equipment will produce electricity that by
means of an inverter or inverters will hook directly into your
breaker box in your house or business. If it's cloudy or not
windy you simply use power as normal from your utility
company. All your wiring and appliances remain just as they
are. Though I will warn you, once you have the means to
produce your own power you will find yourself conserving energy
day and night, simply because it's at the forefront of your
mind. Everything from what you turn on and off to what you
buy and plug into the wall you will weigh as to whether it is
needed or not and how much energy it will use.
|
- ENERGY STAR qualified bulbs use about 75 percent
less energy than standard incandescent bulbs and last
up to 10 times longer.
- Save about $30 or more in electricity costs
over each bulb's lifetime.
|
| What does it cost? |
A simple question with no
simple answer. In fact, it produces a ton of questions
instead. Do you want to go with solar or wind or both?
Is your roof pointing the right way for solar? Do you have
good wind at your location? What are the zoning ordinances
or building codes at your location? How close to your home
will the wind turbine be located? How close to the
neighbors? Do you want battery backup for if/when the power
goes out? What grants, rebates, or tax incentives are there
and of them what do you qualify for? Which product or
products appeal to you? Does your utility company have net
metering? How much do they charge for net metering hook
up? How much power do you need to produce? Do you want
to simply reduce your energy bill or eliminate it? What are
your future needs going to be? There is more... but you get
the idea. If you're serious about producing your own power
then the only way to get a dollar figure is to have an assessment
done for your particular location by someone who you can work with
to get all these questions answered. My telling you it will
be between $5,000 and $50,000 isn't going to be of much help.
|
|
800 kWh / month |
per kWh |
Monthly $ |
Yearly $ |
|
2008 |
0.12 |
$96.00 |
$1,152.00 |
|
2009 |
0.13 |
$101.76 |
$1,221.12 |
|
2010 |
0.13 |
$107.87 |
$1,294.39 |
|
2011 |
0.14 |
$114.34 |
$1,372.05 |
|
2012 |
0.15 |
$121.20 |
$1,454.37 |
|
2013 |
0.16 |
$128.47 |
$1,541.64 |
|
2014 |
0.17 |
$136.18 |
$1,634.13 |
|
2015 |
0.18 |
$144.35 |
$1,732.18 |
|
2016 |
0.19 |
$153.01 |
$1,836.11 |
|
2017 |
0.20 |
$162.19 |
$1,946.28 |
|
2018 |
0.21 |
$171.92 |
$2,063.06 |
|
2019 |
0.23 |
$182.24 |
$2,186.84 |
|
2020 |
0.24 |
$193.17 |
$2,318.05 |
|
2021 |
0.26 |
$204.76 |
$2,457.13 |
|
2022 |
0.27 |
$217.05 |
$2,604.56 |
|
2023 |
0.29 |
$230.07 |
$2,760.84 |
|
2024 |
0.30 |
$243.87 |
$2,926.49 |
|
2025 |
0.32 |
$258.51 |
$3,102.07 |
|
2026 |
0.34 |
$274.02 |
$3,288.20 |
|
2027 |
0.36 |
$290.46 |
$3,485.49 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Total Electric Paid after 20 years |
|
$42,377.00 |
The above calculations assume (only) 800kWh per month usage,
starting at 12 cents per kWh, increasing 6% a year every year
(rounded off) for 20 years. |
| How much can I save?
How long before I've made my money back?
|
Another good question that
generates questions. How many kilowatts do you currently
use? How much are you being charged for your energy needs
currently? What kind of heat do you have? What kind of
hot water heater? How many hours of good sun do you average
per day on a yearly basis? What is your average wind speed
yearly? At what distance off the ground is that
measurement? How much will your utility company be charging
you next year? The year after that? 5 years after
that? 10 years? The answer to how long before you can
make your money back is probably going to fall somewhere between 5
and 20 years, with 12 years being the average (if there is such a
thing) the trick is to get it closer to 5 years then 20.
|
| Why would I want to buy
something that will take 12 years to get my money back on?
|
First, we do not yet know
if that is the correct number of years it will in fact take.
All the above questions plus some more will need to be addressed
first before a final number can be closely estimated.
However, that being said, here are some things to consider.
Wind generators typically have a 5 year warranty with a 20 to 30
year life expectancy. Solar panels typically have a 20 year
warranty with a 40 to 50 year life expectancy. Both tend to
add to the value of your home and increase it's resale
value. Your energy rates will not be going down, ever, and
we both know it. Depending on the system you install, the
energy you consume, and your age, you may never pay an
utility bill after you retire for the rest of your life.
Plus, reducing your carbon footprint has a positive affect on the
environment that has value not only to you but the generations to
come.
|
The following chart is calculated the same way as above
starting with 12 cents per kWh except I only used 2% through 5%
increases, with 3 different kWh usages per month, and then both 20
and 40 years. Note: The average annual inflation rate is
often higher then 2%.
PDF Versions of both charts
(printable)
|
800kwh month
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
2% increase/yr |
3% increase/yr |
4% increase/yr |
5% increase/yr |
|
20 years |
$27,990.57 |
$30,954.67 |
$34,304.35 |
$38,091.98 |
|
40 years |
$69,583.08 |
$86,862.25 |
$109,469.39 |
$139,161.34 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1000kWh month
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
2% increase/yr |
3% increase/yr |
4% increase/yr |
5% increase/yr |
|
20 years |
$34,988.21 |
$38,693.34 |
$42,880.43 |
$47,614.97 |
|
40 years |
$86,978.86 |
$95,121.08 |
$136,836.74 |
$173,951.67 |
|
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|
|
|
|
|
1200kWh month
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
2% increase/yr |
3% increase/yr |
4% increase/yr |
5% increase/yr |
|
20 years |
$41,985.86 |
$46,432.01 |
$51,456.52 |
$57,137.97 |
|
40 years |
$104,374.63 |
$130,293.38 |
$164,204.09 |
$208,742.01 |
The Enphase Micro-Inverter |
| Can you explain the
difference between battery backed-up systems and grid-tie again?
|
In a battery backed-up
system you still receive power from the grid if needed, but you
also have batteries to supply power which get recharged from your
solar array or your wind turbine. Excess power (anything
more then you are using and after the batteries are fully
recharged) is still net metered back to the power company.
The battery backed-up system has several additional components
to it (compared to a plain grid-tie system). If the source
of the power is AC it must be converted to DC. If the source
is already DC then you don't need this item obviously. The
DC is then sent to a charge controller which prevents the
batteries from being overcharged. There are the batteries
themselves which must be kept out of the weather, above freezing,
and with adequate air circulation to prevent gases from building
up (explosions are but one concern with batteries). The
batteries must also be kept from fully discharging. Full
discharging can take years off the life of these types of
batteries. The inverter then changes the power from DC to
AC. There must also be a cut-off to the grid should the
utility lose power so that the energy is available for use locally
but does not enter the grid.
Net Metering means the power company will accept the AC energy
produced that is not immediately used and give you credit for that much energy.
The meter will
run backwards giving you a credit. When you are not producing all of your own
needs you draw power from the grid and your meter runs
normally. Some utility company policies state that all unused credits will be void
after one year. If you send them more then you use over a
year's time they just keep the excess. In most cases you will not be refunded for sending more energy
to the utility company then you used over that 12 month
period.
In a sense, the power company IS your battery.. If you produce
too much they get it, and when you don't produce enough you use
theirs. The meter moving both ways nets it out and you only
get charged for what you use over and above what you sent them
that month.
|
| So if I have net metering
and the utility loses power I won't have any power unless I have
the battery backup system?
|
That is correct. If
your utility loses power you are required to stop feeding
electricity into the grid immediately (the inverter will sense
this and shut off automatically). The risk to workers on the
line is too grave to allow anything other then a complete shut
down. If this is a concern and you want or need power when
the utility is down, you should probably first consider purchasing
and installing a diesel or gas generator. The overall
initial cost will be considerably less, annual maintenance will be
less, the lifespan will be greater (batteries tend to last only 5
to 8 years max), and for short power outages it will be quite
sufficient. |

For more information on Net Metering click
here
Also on this site is the list of state
participating in net metering. |
| What if I want to go off
grid entirely?
|
Anyone can, of course,
but...
You will be responsible for all your power creation and
consumption. If it's cloudy for a week straight and you have
only solar the batteries will eventually run out and you will not
have any power. If you have a wind generator and there's no
wind, same thing. Should some part of the system fail you
will be without power until it can be repaired. You must
stick to a strict regiment of battery and system
maintenance. You must also be prepared to turn off and keep
off any and all non-essential appliances in low energy producing
conditions to conserve power for required items such as water and
refrigeration.
Going off grid makes sense if there is no utility in which to
get power from nearby (such as in very remote locations) or if the
utility plans to charge you many tens of thousands of dollars for
hookup... otherwise it only makes sense to those individuals who
enjoy the ultimate in self sufficiency.
If you live where the majority of the population lives and have
ready access to an electric grid it makes more sense to go with
battery assisted grid tie (battery backed-up) "just in
case" you need their juice.
|

http://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/residential/wind.html
|
| What is better, solar or
wind? Or can I go with both?
|
Each location is
different. Some locations are in a valley and do not have
good wind but does have good sun. Others may have no
southerly exposure for good sun but may have good wind with a
little extra height. Only an on-site inspection can answer
this question.
If the site allows, then yes, both are an option. In
fact, it might even be preferred. Many days when it is bright and sunny there is no wind, and
most or at least many windy days are cloudy. In addition, solar
produces no energy at night while wind generators can do so. A
system that combines both is more apt to produce the energy
expected without having to oversize either. The correct balance of
each depends on the typical local weather conditions, the layout
of the property location, the landscape and buildings on the
property, and other factors like budget and even current tax law
(explained later).
|
| Can I add more later?
How easy is it to expand a system? Must one buy the whole thing
at once?
|
The short answer is
yes. The longer answer is:
Depends on the system(s) you are looking at. If using the Enphase
inverters it is very easy to add on later, it's conceivable to
start with even just one panel and add up to 15 more later to make
up a 16 panel array (you can even have more then one array), though
the overall expense would be slightly more this way. It is not unheard of
for a home to have more then one wind systems either, but if the
inverter isn't built-in, of if we're talking about solar without Enphase
inverters, then the inverter that IS being used may not be
large enough to handle the additional input, and a new one may be
required. If future expansion is deemed likely then this should be
planned for in advance of the first installation. Get the
bigger inverter for future expansion rather then having to sell
you used one and replace it with a larger one. Another
problem with expansion is the wiring. The more juice the
wiring must carry the bigger the wire must be. If the wire
isn't large enough it can overheat and even catch fire. Your
system installer is very aware of this danger and will tell you if
the wiring needs to be replaced. You could end up having to
replace a lot of the copper wire should expansion be needed unless
it was planned for from the beginning. It all depends on
what you are looking at having installed and what you already have
installed and what was preplanned for (if anything was needed to
be preplanned for at all).
|

|
| Does it cost twice as much to produce twice as much power?
|
Not usually. There
are costs involved in an installation that occur once per site
(such as the permit, the net-metering meter, inspections,
monitoring equipment, conduit, etc) and there are costs that occur
once every so many pieces (number of panels, number of turbines,
etc). To say a 4kw system will cost twice as much as a 2kw
system would not normally be accurate. If more then one
sized system quote is desired you might mention that during the
initial on-site inspection..
|
State Incentives for Renewable Energy

http://www.dsireusa.org/index.cfm?EE=1&RE=1
|
Average Sun and Wind Speeds for West
Michigan |
|
Average Daily Insolation
Availability near Muskegon Michigan |
|
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|
Angle |
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
Average |
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0 Degrees (Flat or Horizontal) |
1.6 |
2.4 |
3.5 |
4.7 |
5.9 |
6.4 |
6.4 |
5.4 |
4.1 |
2.7 |
1.6 |
1.2 |
3.8 hrs
daily |
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28 Degrees (Latitude -15^) * |
2.0 |
3.1 |
4.2 |
5.2 |
6.0 |
6.3 |
6.4 |
5.8 |
4.8 |
3.5 |
2.1 |
1.6 |
4.3 hrs daily |
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43 Degrees (at Latitude tilt) |
2.2 |
3.3 |
4.3 |
5.1 |
5.6 |
5.8 |
5.9 |
5.6 |
4.9 |
3.7 |
2.2 |
1.8 |
4.2 hrs
daily |
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58 Degrees (Latitude +15^) |
2.3 |
3.4 |
4.2 |
4.7 |
5.0 |
5.0 |
5.2 |
5.1 |
4.6 |
3.7 |
2.3 |
1.8 |
3.9 hrs daily |
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90 Degrees (Straight up or Vertical) |
2.1 |
3.1 |
3.4 |
3.2 |
2.9 |
2.8 |
2.9 |
3.2 |
3.4 |
3.0 |
2.0 |
1.7 |
2.8 hrs daily |
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*
A 6/12 Pitch Roof is approximately 26.5 degrees, an
optimal angle at this latitude, but not the only
angle that would work.
The
summer sun will produce over 3 times the electricity
that winter sun will. |
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|
Average Wind Speed near Muskegon
Michigan |
|
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Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
Average |
|
Average Wind Speed (in m/s) at 626
feet above sea level near the 43rd parallel |
5.6 |
5.1 |
5.4 |
5.3 |
4.5 |
4.2 |
4.0 |
3.9 |
4.2 |
4.7 |
5.3 |
5.4 |
4.8 m/s |
|
(in mph)
|
12.5 |
11.4 |
12.1 |
11.9 |
10.1 |
9.4 |
8.9 |
8.7 |
9.4 |
10.5 |
11.9 |
12.1 |
10.7 mph** |
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**The
above readings are an average taken over 30 years. The
anemometer recorded the 10.7mph average wind speed at
an elevation of 20 feet off the ground, the average wind speed will
increase to 11.3mph at 30 feet, to 12mph at 45 feet, 13.3mph at 60 feet,
and a 14.6mph average at 120 feet.
Winter
winds are stronger then summer winds. |
|
|
| Where are the products you sell made?
|
Most of the products are
made in the USA. Uni-Rac, Quick Mount PV, SolarWorld
Modules, Enphase Inverters, Outback Inverters, and all the wind
turbines are made in the USA. REC solar modules are made in
Sweden. Other modules are made in Germany or elsewhere in
Europe. (Europe is much more into solar and wind then the
USA and has been for quite some time, in fact Germany and Spain
lead the world in solar installations.) These are all
products which I sell. I tend to steer away from products
made in China and some that are made in Japan. In fact, all
items I quote are made in the USA unless specified otherwise.
|
| What credits, grants or
tax breaks are there available?
|
Please re-visit the answer
to this question often, it will change, often. Currently
there is a federal tax credit for residential solar of up to
$2,000 but nothing for wind. It is set to expire December
31st, 2008. It may get renewed. It may get
increased. It may go away completely.
*** Oct 3rd 2008, it got renewed and increased.
Owners who purchase small wind systems can receive a
credit of 30% of the total installed cost of the system,
not to exceed $4,000, limited to $500 per 1/2 KW (see your
tax preparer for other qualifications).
There is no longer a cap on solar starting in 2009, but
it's still capped at $2,000 for the rest of 2008. In
2009 or after, buy $20,000 worth
of solar and get a credit on your tax return of $6,000.
Buy 4kw of Wind Turbine for more then $13,334 and get
$4,000 back on your federal tax return.
The wind credit will be available for
equipment installed from January 1, 2008 through Dec 31, 2016
See http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits
You should
talk to your tax preparer for full details and to ensure you
qualify for the credit. ***
The State of Michigan currently has no grants or credits
available of any kind. Unlike Oregon, Washington,
California, Colorado, Connecticut, and various other states, the
current Michigan leadership has made no moves towards helping
residences with alternative energy other then requiring utility
companies to comply with net metering regulations.
See the "News" link (on this site) for some more details on both the
State and the Federal credit situation.
|
| Why would I not want to
try to get a system that will provide for all my energy needs?
|
Economics. Your
energy may be billed to you in an incremental system. For
example; the first 600kWh per month may cost you .12 per kW.
The next 400kWh per month may be costing you .18 per kW. You
will recoup your investment much quicker installing a system that
produces that last 400kWh per month then if you try to produce
1,000kWh per month.
You can play the tax incentives game. Install a small
system now and qualify for the current tax credit, then hope a new
credit is made law down the road and take advantage of that by
installing more then.
Perhaps you currently heat with fuel oil. I've heard
someone tell me that at $4 per gallon for heating oil they will
spend in excess of $4,000 for heat this winter. Installing
an electric geo-thermal system (for example) and either solar or
wind devices to cover just the increase in electric usage may
allow a person to pay for their new heating system in just a few
years but provide heat for decades at no additional yearly
expense.
Then there are the plain old fashion budget concerns.
Splitting up an installation into multiple installations may allow
a home or business owner to avoid arranging for financing of the
system thus saving even more money.
|

|
| Wind
Questions |
|
|
| If I use about 1.5
kilowatts of power per hour then a 1.5kw wind turbine should be
all I need, right? |
No. The "rated" output of wind generators are something
of an unobtainable number. It's not that the generator isn't
capable of producing that output, it's just that in order to do so
it would have to have a continual source of wind at the rated wind
speed.
For example, a wind generator rated at 2kw at 32mph would
have to have constant (as in 24 hours a day, 7 days a week) 32mph winds to produce the full 2kw of
power. In my area that wind speed has been obtained exactly once
in the past year, and then not for very many hours at that.
If you
are using the rated output to compare makes and models of wind
generators you should also note that no two generators use the same
wind speed for their output number. One might be 1.2kw at 20mph,
the next might be 1.5kw at 25mph... the 1.5kw might only produce
1.0kw at 20mph, but you will have to dig deeper to find that out.
And, to top that off, depending on where you live, you may only
see 20mph winds 12 times a year.
Wind generators do not produce twice as much energy at double
the wind speed. (read that one again carefully) Typically they will produce from 4 to 8 times as
much energy at double the wind speed.
The reverse is also true...
half the wind speed will generate one fourth to one eighth the
energy. Then, at even lower levels of wind it will produce nothing at all.
All wind generators have a "cut-in" speed. This is the
how fast the wind must be blowing before any energy is produced at
all.
The best way to establish how much energy a wind turbine will
produce for you is to first find out how much your average wind
speed is at your location and then do the calculations from
there... assuming you can find the information needed to do the
math for the turbine you wish to purchase.
One more thing, in my area there are a number of personal
weather stations, two of them are about 3 miles apart, but one is
at a considerably higher elevation then the other, with fewer
trees near by... it's average wind speed is nearly 70% more then
the other one. (Note: neither station is all that high
off the ground).
|
Power Curve Example
|
| What about noise?
|
All wind turbines make noise. It's not just the turbines but
also the inverters. Many manufacturers have taken steps to
reduce the noise level of both. Some designs are inherently
quieter then others. For example, most VAWT wind turbines
are quieter then HAWT wind turbines. The trade off may be
less energy production per unit. Which unit is right for you
and why is yet to be determined.
Another issue involving noise are roof mount turbines.
Aside from the structural concerns that must be taken into
account, any moving object connected solidly to a structure can
cause a vibration like humming sound throughout the
structure. This potential must be considered before
installation preferably by visiting an existing installation to
hear for yourself the noise generated.
|

Watch
a video
Same Video but for
Dial-up Connection
Another
version of this product |
| What is the best wind turbine for the money?
|
Another simple question that will generate more questions.
The first is "at what average wind speed?" The
next is "how much power is needed?" There are many
other factors that would go into it as well, such as how much
height is required to get above any obstacles and installation
costs over and above the cost of the unit itself.
Alternative energy is a growing industry, with a lot of
competition, and new technology is coming out almost on a monthly
basis, so what is "best" one month may not be
"best" the next. What is "best" for you
may not be what is "best" for your neighbor.
Having said all that, the products I carry are the
"best" for the various situations I encounter. Now
it's just a matter of determining which of them is right for you.
|
| How much room does a wind
turbine require?
|
Generally, you want the
turbine to have 250 to 300 feet of clearance around it with the
turbine itself being 20 feet above the tallest object. Some
tree removal may be desired before installation (or after
installation but I recommend it be done before to avoid potential
damage to the turbine, depending on the situation).
|
| Why does the height matter? |
The higher you go the
faster the wind but the more the installation will cost. A
10.25 mph wind at 10 feet off the ground will be around 12 mph at
30 feet and 14 mph at 90 feet. You have to balance this
along with the lay of the land and the height of the objects near
by with the cost of the tower.
The chart at the right shows wind speed in miles per hour along
the bottom for the tower height along the left side. The
data is as follows:
|
Tower height in feet |
10 |
20 |
30 |
45 |
60 |
90 |
120 |
|
wind speed mph |
10.25 |
11.3 |
12 |
12.7 |
13.3 |
14 |
14.6 |
In addition to the consideration of obstacles, land contours,
and costs there is the additional consideration of the local
zoning and building codes. In some areas you may not erect a
tower over 30 feet. In others, it may be 45
feet.
One final consideration is servicing. Be it repair or
maintenance. The higher the turbine the harder and more
expensive it will be to maintain it or if the need arises, to
repair it.
|
MPH
Typically, the higher the tower the higher
the wind speed at any given time. |
| Solar
Questions |
|
|
| Why do Solar Modules (also called
Panels) cost so
much?
|
The primary ingredient used in the making of a traditional
solar cell is silicon, a raw material that is often in short
supply. In addition, making a solar panel is a very labor
intensive endeavor, as you can witness by watching
this video on YouTube. |

Thin
Film Laminates: Watch
a Video |
| What about the new thin film solar products, they're
supposed to be at least half the cost?
|
There are
several problems with thin film products, at least right now, and
the first is that most manufacturers are back-logged for orders
for many many months and even if they weren't they are only
selling in very large quantities. Their customers are
usually power companies not individuals. I'll have to do some
comparisons but I believe thin film products tend to be less
efficient at creating electricity when compared to silicon
products with the same square feet of space.
That's not to say that they aren't economical, but it may require
more roof space to produce the same amount of electricity.
|
| So there are no thin film
products available?
|
No. One manufacture
in Michigan has a product available, it is a thin film laminate.
Thin film
laminate is attached directly to metal roofing. It reduces the expense of installation by
eliminating the need for mounting brackets. This product
is currently available and in desired quantities with only a small
amount of lead time. View the information on this
product by clicking here. Shelby Solar and Wind can
install a metal roof with Uni-Solar thin film laminates if the
location meets installation criteria, specifically the location of
the roof in comparison to the sun. Contact us for details or
to obtain a quote. (There is also a video of this product on
you tube, see link to the right).
|
| What about noise?
|
You would think that solar
modules with no moving parts would be utterly quiet, and you would
be correct. But the inverter that converts the DC to AC
power does make a humming noise, the bigger it is (more power it
can convert) the louder it can be. Location of the inverter
is an important consideration in designing a system. One way
to avoid the noise issue is to use the Enphase
Micro-Inverters. Each micro-inverter does a fraction of the
work of a traditional full system inverter and thus each creates
very little noise (plus they are on the roof well away from
anyone). That being said, the actual amount of noise
for any inverter in a residential environment is very low
regardless. This is more of a concern for commercial
installations.
|
Watch
a video on inverters |
| Misc.
Questions |
|
| What other things should I
be aware of?
|
Shading has the single biggest affect on solar after the total
lack of sunlight. A leaf, bird droppings, shade from a tree or
building or even a chimney can severely reduce the amount of
energy production for the entire system until corrected. It is
essential that all potential shading problems be addressed before
installation. Shaded panels should never be on the same string as
non-shaded panels for a shaded panel will affect the entire string
unless the technology can accommodate this issue. There are
several technologies available to use if removal of the obstacle
is not an option.
Interference has the single biggest affect on wind generators
(after the lack of wind of course). Trees and buildings that were
not there or full grown when the system was installed can affect
the flow of wind hitting the turbine. So can landscape changes.
Consideration of the wind generator location should be made before
planting or building near the system.
Voltage. If the inverter is built-into the unit then the output
is AC power, usually 220 volts. Care should be given not to damage
any wiring coming from the system. If the inverter is a single
unit near the power meter then all output wires to the unit are DC
and may carry over 500 volts. DC voltage is much more dangerous at
these levels then AC. Never work on wiring after installation
without ensuring the power is cut off throughout the system.
(note: if the Sun is out, the lines are live)
Refer to manufacturers directions for cleaning solar panels.
Use only the correct solvents and means of debris removal. Never
walk on your panels. Do not climb wind towers. Be sure to follow
proper maintenance procedures.
Permission must be received before a system can be connected to
the power grid from your utility company, there can be fees
associated with this and it can be time consuming in some cases.
Be prepared for delays.
Product is in great demand, not only in the USA but world-wide.
There is a lead time for many items ordered, however, my distributor
does stock a great deal of product to reduce or eliminate this
lead time.
All installations require permits and inspections. Each
inspector may require different elements to be installed, at the
home owners expense. To avoid unexpected costs, full plans need
to be presented during the permit application phase.
If a roof is to be replaced the entire solar installation will
need to be removed and re-installed, it is advisable not to
install a solar energy system on an older roof that is in need of
replacement. Solar panels have
a tendency to lengthen the life of standard roofing products but
not indefinitely.
In order to install a wind system a great deal of cement will
need to be used to anchor the tower, thought needs to be given as
to how to transport the cement to the site. In order to install
solar it is necessary to attach it to the roof (unless it's a free
standing system), the attachments to the roof should be properly
flashed to prevent leaks. The system must also be properly
grounded to reduce or eliminate damage by lightning. One
more note: the glass panels housing the solar modules are
typically rated for 1 inch hail at 140mph.
|
"The U.S. Department of Energy (USDOE)
estimates that Michigan has the potential to be one of the top
eight states for wind energy generation in the country, making
Michigan an attractive customer market for wind turbine
manufacturers. The USDOE has also cited a study by the
Renewable Energy Policy Project that found Michigan is the fourth
best- positioned state to expand wind power manufacturing jobs.
Many wind turbine manufacturers are sold out of their product for
one or two years down the road."
http://www.michigan.gov/minewswire/0,1607,7-136-3452-200347--,00.html.
|
Wind Speed Conversion Table |
|
|
|
Meters per Second (m/s) |
Miles per Hour (mph) |
|
2 |
4.47 |
|
2.5 |
5.59 |
|
3 |
6.71 |
|
3.5 |
7.83 |
|
4 |
8.95 |
|
4.5 |
10.06 |
|
5 |
11.18 |
|
5.5 |
12.3 |
|
6 |
13.42 |
|
6.5 |
14.54 |
|
7 |
15.66 |
|
7.5 |
16.78 |
|
8 |
17.9 |
|
8.5 |
19.01 |
|
9 |
20.13 |
|
9.5 |
21.25 |
|
10 |
22.37 |
|
Meters
per Second (m/s)
Miles per Hour (mph)
|
|
1.79 |
4 |
|
2.24 |
5 |
|
2.68 |
6 |
|
3.13 |
7 |
|
3.57 |
8 |
|
4.02 |
9 |
|
4.47 |
10 |
|
4.92 |
11 |
|
5.36 |
12 |
|
5.81 |
13 |
|
6.26 |
14 |
|
6.7 |
15 |
To
calculate your own visit here |
|
|
Have a question that was
not answered? Please submit it via the "contact
us" link. |
|
|